Scientific Name : Correlophus Ciliatus 

Common Name : Crested Gecko – Eyelash Gecko

Origins : New Caledonia

Behaviour : Crepuscular

Easy Of Care : Beginner

Life Span: 15 – 20 Years +

About crested geckos

Crested Geckos (Correlophus ciliatus) – (first discovered in 1866 and then thought to be extinct until their rediscovery in 1994) and are one the most popular reptiles to keep. They are easy to care for, have calm temperaments which makes for easy handling and remain relatively small (approx. 15-20cm Full length)

Along with the small size, The large range of colours and patterns these geckos are available in make them a fun reptile to keep. They prefer to live alone. Cohabiting can lead to fighting, and competition for food.

In their natural habitat crested geckos will lose their tails this is mostly likely caused by being a food opportunity to predators in there natural habitat. Crested geckos tails do not grow back and will heal up to being a little pointed stump. Keeping your crested gecko separately from other geckos will help prevent tail loss.

Set-up / Enclosure

Crested geckos are best kept in an arboreal terrarium.  A 45x45x60cm glass terrarium is the minimum size for an adult. Glass terrariums with good ventilation help with the higher humidity requirements. Young geckos, it is advised they are housed in smaller setups, to aid with monitoring growth and feeding.


This is not only to make your enclosure more pleasing to look at but is essential to make your crested gecko feel safe and secure in its enclosure. This can be accomplished with a simplistic artificial set up of vines, branches, artificial plants & coco fiber. Cork bark tubes make ideal hiding spots, and the rough outer aids the shedding process.  Bio Active set ups are also great for crested geckos.


Although crested geckos are crepuscular they can benefit from additional UVB lighting. They can be found in Ferguson Zone 1. which means they require  UVI 0 – 0.7% (Maximum UVI: 0.6 – 1.4% in basking zone). A 2.4% UVB bulb is recommended to give the correct UV strength when placed on the mesh screen top of your terrarium.

Temperature & Humidty

Crested geckos require An ambient temperature in the range of 20-24C within the enclosure. Although no additional heat is required a basking spot can be added. The basking spot should be set to 25°c – 26°c Ideally night time temps should not dip below 18°c. 

Crested Geckos thrive with a slightly higher humidity than most other reptiles this should be maintained at around 50% with this increasing  to around 70-80% when misting once or twice a day depending your location in the world.  Bioactive is a great way to keep the correct humidity levels in your terrarium.     

You can monitor humidity with a hygrometer but generally misting once a day in colder wetter months and twice a day in warmer months will keep your crested gecko at the correct humidity.  The enclosure should have a drying out period between mistings.

Food & water

Crested geckos eat both fruit and insect-based diets.  There are a variety of complete crested geckos diets available on the market.  These are available as a powder, when mixed with water make a fruit smoothie type meal. This should be replaced every 48 hours. It can be fed in a bowl on a ledge where the gecko finds it easy to access. 

Crested  geckos can also be  offered a variety of different, gut loaded livefood insects. 

 Live foods can include:







*Important* Always feed insects of an appropriate size, the insect should be no bigger than the gap between your geckos eyes All live food should be dusted in Vitamin & Mineral powders, Calcium powder with added D3. (Please read the label of your chosen brand) You will often see your gecko lapping water from the leaves in their enclosure after misting,  They will also drink from a water bowl. Adding a water bowl ensures constant access to water.


When you introduce you crested gecko in his/her new home its best to leave them alone to settle in and get used to their surrounding for 3-4 weeks this will help encourage them to eat their crested gecko diet. Hatchlings are more flighty than adults but soon get used to being held. Creested geckos are easy to handle but if you can refrain from to much handling is best.


  • Stuck Shed – If your crested gecko has had a bad shed (stuck shed) this usually indicates your humidity is to low. If you can addressing the issue as soon as possible is best. Try rasing your humidity.
  • MBD Metabolic Bone Disease – Happens when your gecko doesn’t have the correct amount of calcium in their diet resulting in bad bone structure – jaw deformitiesand mussle tremors to name a few.
  • Egg Binding – Dystocai (caused if your crested geckos fat or calcium deposits are low) If you suspect your gecko has egg inside her she may be having trouble passing them it is best to call your reptile vet straight away.
  • Bacterial and fungal infections – are caused by poor hushandry dirty enclosures, if you notice any symptoms please seek veterinarian advice straight away.
  • Impaction “although uncommon” If using coco fiber your crested gecko could become impacted particularly in smaller crested geckos.
  • Please be aware reptiles can carry salmonella. Good handwashing practices should be taken before after handling your reptile.

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